Post #38: James Kipp Recreational Area Sunday, June 8

Speed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 18

Time: 6:00 am to 9:15 am 

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B037'26.0%22N+108%C2%B040'38.8%22W/@47.6239,-108.67744,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

Around noon, John is already at James Kipp Recreation Area, where supply packages await him. Ellen 

Before noon on Sunday, I was in sight of the Fred Robinson bridge at James Kipp Recreational Area. There was a large number of people under the bridge cleaning their day's catch. They had setup numerous RVs in the campground and cooked, drank, and enjoyed each other's company late into the night. I was in the tent area where it was quiet.  

While I napped inside my tent, a pontoon boat arrived and was hauled up the boat launch and parked across from the tent area. It looked like four different families. The kids and men stayed as the wifes left the area. The kids began setting up their tent in the area near my location. While I forced cold black rice down for dinner, Todd and his daughter, Brooke, visited with me. The crew had floated from near Coal Banks on a three day float to James Kipp. Todd has a ranch near Opiem, Mt. just south of the Canadian border. Brooke could hold a conversation with anyone and had great eye contact.  

The other there men were preparing dinner and I was invited over for food, beer, and great stories. They were for friends that were having a great time on the river. It was enjoyable being around such down to earth people. They made sure that when I left for my tent, I was full.  Beer, pop,  home made sausage, chips, and hot dogs were on the menu. 

As I finished reading my Kindle, they built a fire so the kids could have their s'mores. Soon the entire crew retired to their sleeping bags. The kids were inside the tent and the men found flat areas outside on the hard packed ground. They were all asleep before I drifted off. It was a great day. It was a much needed mental health day for me. The people I meet on the river are amazingly helpful and friendly. I am humbled by their kindness.

Post #37: Lower Woodhawk BLM Saturday, June 7

ESpeed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 68

Time: 6:00 am to 8:30 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B044'27.6%22N+108%C2%B056'55.6%22W/@47.74099,-108.94879,13478m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en 

On my way to Hole in the Wall campsite, I stopped at Eagle Creek campground in order to hike Neat Coulee. As I started my hike, a family packed their canoe and headed out.

The family suggested that I take a right at the fork in the trail. I did. Soon afterwards, I found a chockstone which I crawled under and pass by it The coulee kept getting narrower like the slot canyons in the Southwest.The trail meandered upwards and once the incline became too steep I turned back. My legs really enjoyed the walk.
 It was a lovely hike and a much needed leg stretcher.

The hike reminded me of the slot canyons in the SW.

I took out at Judith Landing for a rest and lunch. It was 26 miles from Hole in the Wall to Judith Landing.

Jim and Martha invited me to have lunch with them. I had met them at Coal Banks the day before. They are BLM volunteers and move from site to site starting at Fort Benton and ending at Judith Landing.  They had an unpublished pamphlet with photos and detailed descriptions of all possible campsites on the Upper Missouri. It was a treasure of information. Martha offered me three truffles after lunch. They were all a delight. Jim and Martha were very informative and encouraging.

I was turning the kayak so I could view the big horn sheep better and floated backwards for a few minutes. 

I had no idea what to expect for scenery beyond Judith Landing. It was beautiful. The lighting enhanced every color and the texture. At times I would just drift and enjoy the sights. It was one of my favorite sections of the paddle.  I tried to capture the beautiful, the quietness, and the bighorn sheep on the cliff via video. 

Absolutely stunning landscape below Judith Landing.

The take out location was Lower Woodhawk at 8:30pm.  It was 45 miles from Judith Landing and Judith is 26 miles from my morning put in at Hole in the Wall.  That made for a 71 mile day and a easy 18 miles to James Kipp the next day. It was a horrible camping location. The kayak was tied up on the muddy shore and the tent was setup under the cottonwoods with too much distance between the two. I was too tired to care.

My coordinates: http://fms.ws/HGfGW/47.74099N/108.94879W near Woodland Creek.
I didn't reach the site until almost 8:30 pm. Long day.

Post #36: Hole in the Wall BLM Friday, June 6

Speed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 22

Time: 8:06 am to 2:36 pm
Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B049'12.1%22N+110%C2%B003'52.1%22W/@47.82002,-110.06448,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

 Heading down river to Coal Banks for a night at a developed campsite.

The take-out at Coal Banks: 42 miles down rover from Fort Benton
 and 288 miles from my put-in at Three Forks where I started on 5/25.

I met the Upper Missouri River manager, Mark Schaefer. 

He told me he would have water at James Kipp for me.

These two Vancouver paddlers kept me entertained with their adventures stories.
They have a very impressive outdoor resume.

Pat and Pierce sent some photos of me leaving Coal Banks.

I landed at Hole in the Wall late in the afternoon after a 22 mile day. 

This was the first time that weather permitting I realized that 

I could paddle into the evening instead of starting my campground search at 4:00 pm.

I set up camp alongside the BLM shelter at Hole in the Wall. 

I encountered no mice which told me there where plenty of snakes in the area.

I love the view of the river looking west upriver from Hole in the Wall.

When you are on the river, it doesn't seem to run fast. 

Once on shore, you can easily see how fast the current is running. 

I spent the evening alone watching and listening to the river flow. 

The bird songs almost drowned out the sound of the river. The late evening sun felt great.

I feel like I have the entire Missouri River to myself. I kinda like this.

Post #35: Coal Banks BLM Thursday, June 5

Speed: 6 mph

Miles: 40

Time: 6:33 am to 1:30 pm

Location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/48%C2%B001'54.6%22N+110%C2%B014'08.9%22W/@48.0318295,-110.23581,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

Fort Benton is a nice town to rest. After three days of resting, sorting the new supplies and getting rid of useless items, and walking endless hours in town, I am ready for an early morning launch. My left forearm feels great and my lower right ribs feel rested. I am looking forward to the fast current and scenic landscape that is ahead of me. This section should be a pleasure.

     The monument to Shep, a faithful dog, in Fort Benton. 

           Cool story about Shep. Read about him:     

 http:/ /www.roadsideamerica.com/story/4367

   and http://www.fortbenton.com/shep.html

     The monument to Lewis and Clark

 in Fort Benton stood tall in the town.

My send-off breakfast was waiting for me at 5:30.
Off to Coal Banks.

     

        Early morning put in at Fort Benton after a good rest. 

        My body felt refreshed and ready for the day's paddle. 

Post #34: Fort Benton, Mt. Tuesday, June 3

Another day spent resting in Fort Benton. My B & B made me a wonderful, healthful breakfast (sodium, sugar and dairy free) thanks to Laurie. Mid morning, I walked to a local outfitter to purchase poop bags. She wanted $20 for five. I gave her $15. I have to have the poop bags for the remaining section of the paddle.

Meredith helped design the bags and was really proud of them.

Mark Schaefer, the river manager for the BLM, called and informed me the water was still unusable at James Kipp. He also gave me the name of the campground host and his address so Ellen can ship my supplies for Fort Peck Lake to me. He told me he would have the host give me water jugs for my 147-mile paddle across the lake. I spent the remaining morning hours sorting gear and clothing. I finally packed three boxes and a poster tube and sent them home. I sure hope I don't regret sending out the medium-weight sleeping bag!

There seem to be fewer businesses in town than there were seven or eight years ago when we were last here. The cafe where we had breakfast is no longer there, and it seemed like such a popular place for locals.

It is slightly raining here today. I like the town of Fort Benton. 

Post #33: Fort Benton, Mt. Monday, June 2

Speed: 8-9 mph

Miles: 16.5

Time: 9:08 am to 12:10 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B049'12.7%22N+110%C2%B040'00.5%22W/@47.82018,-110.66681,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

Fort Benton was a built in rest stop for me. The first third of the paddle with the dams, portages, flat water, winds, and great hospitality stuffed into 426.7 river miles are behind me. Rest for my body and mind before the second third, which is 153.3 miles through the more remote, most scenic, pristine, and free-running section of the Missouri River.

Jim and I had breakfast at his favorite family-owned cafe at 8:00 am. He had made prints of the Fort Benton river front for me. He also had a short list of places to stay. We arrived at Carter Ferry put in at about 9:20. Brian, the ferry operator, joined us and provided good information about the conditions. He thought I would be in Fort Benton by noon. He missed it by ten minutes.

My take out at Fort Benton was at the town's boat launch so my portaged was only one block south and then one block west to Lark and Laurel B & B.
The kayak is resting securely in their backyard. It was a relaxing two hours on the river.

As soon as I was settled in my room, I went to the PO for my supply packages. 

Susan knew exactly where they were stored.

           For dinner, alongside the river, I had chicken with huckleberry sauce with a letter from my love. 

Post #32: Great Falls, Mt. Sunday, June 1

Speed: 4-5 mph

Miles: 24

Time: 6 am to 11:15 pm

Location: https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B029'41.3%22N+111%C2%B018'34.8%22W/@47.49481,-111.30966,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

Beavers would float by during the night and slap their huge tails on the water as they dove deep. I got up prior to sunrise and found a beautiful scene.

     There is a beavers swimming against the 3.5 mph current in the photo.

   Before 11:00 am, I made the paddle around Big Bend.

The river slowed as I approached Great Falls and split into numerous channels.
When in doubt, I followed the strongest current and when still in doubt,
I followed the cottonwoods.

The Medicine River Canoe Club provided portage around the
dams in Great Falls. I had called the  number while resting in Ulm.

     

Jim arrived soon after I called him to tell him I was ready for the portage. He and I loaded my kayak onto his truck and I put my gear that I would not need while resting in a motel inside the bed of his truck. I showered and put on clean clothes, and the two of us visit the C. M. Russell Museum.

 I found Jim very knowledgeable about Russell, Lewis and Clark, and travel on the Missouri. The two of us will have breakfast at his favorite cafe in the morning. I wish I could see more of Great Falls.
By the way, the section between Cascade and Ulm was great for birds of all kinds.  It seemed to be ideal conditions for birds.