Post #55: Thanks!

As I mentioned in the previous post, when I began this project I thought it would be a test of my mental toughness and how my phyiscal stamina would hold up. It was to a certain extent. I thought a lot about the Lewis and Clark Corp and how they pushed and pulled their boats up river against that strong current.  How did they ever keep their footing in that mud?

Each morning I looked forward to being back on the river and experiencing the new sights around next bend. The morning hours on the river took my mind off the tired muscles. Watching the endless pairs of geese guarding their off-spring as they paraded across the water or through the high grass was inspiring. Listening to the beavers at night making their two slaps in the water as they curised with and against the current was novel for me. Surprising the herd of wild horses as they gathered on a sandy bend was a thrill I will never forget. Seeing the numerous dead cows laying in the river was heart breaking as I thought about their slow death caused by the suction of the mud.
The river is huge and very powerful and I gained a tremendous respect for it. Yet, each morning it was always inviting me back.
With that said, the experiences I will always remember are the ones involving the Montana people. Without their help, it would not have been such a wonderful esperience.  I was very impressed with their hospitality.
A heartfelt thank you to the following people...

Erwin, Silos campground volunteer host, who gave me a free campsite on the sandy beach next to my kayak.  He even offered to take me out to dinner that evening and jumped by my campsite often to talk.

Buzz, the seasonal park ranger at Black Sands State Park. Buzz gave me insight to which tent site would be the best for my stay.  He told me numerous stories about working at the park and dealing with the tourist throughout the summers. He even checked on me late in the evening to make sure I was safe.

Craig, the owner of Kim's Marina on Canyon Ferry Lake, had his hired hand, Logan, give me free portage around Canyon Ferry Dam. It saved me money and valuable hours.

Jared, fishing guide, stopped his boat with two clients where I was beached for lunch.  He asked if I was alright and if I needed any help.

Mike, owner of Trout Motel in Cascade, was full of advice about the river. He connected me with Terry, the previous owner of the motel, who makes wooden kayaks.

Terry and Pam, residents of Cascade, invited me over for wine and to view the wooden kayaks in their shop.

The five fishermen who were having breakfast in Cascade while waiting out the morning thunderstorm. All five gave me advice about the river downstream from Cascade. They were concerned about my well being.

Jim, Medicine River Canoe Club, was more than ready to provide me portage around Great Falls.
He took me to the C.M. Russell Museum, stored my kayak in his garage, dropped me off at my hotel, and paid for breakfast the next day. Jim was a wealth of information. He gave me prints of the Fort Benton river front which were very helpful and a list of potential places to stay. He would not take gas money for the long drive to my put-in at Carter Ferry. He also provided useful information for Ellen when she drove through Great Falls on the way to Fort Peck.

Brian, Carter Ferry operator, provided the latest information about down river conditions as I prepared the kayak for put-in.

Laurie, owner of Laurel and Lark B&B in Fort Benton, was an outstanding host for my three day stay. She not only prepared healthy and tasteful breakfasts, but also provided conversation and a glass or two of wine while I sat in her backyard in the late afternoons.

Mark Schaefer, the Upper Missour River manager for the BLM, called me to inform me that he would have water at James Kipp for me. Later, while I was at Coal Banks, Mark visited my campsite and we discussed conditions and possible campsites downriver. I missed the campsites but the water at James Kipp helped me get across Fort Peck Lake.

Jim and Martha, BLM volunteers, were at Coal Banks when I arrived.  Jim wanted to help me move my kayak and gear to my tent site and Matha provided useful information about the area. As I approached Judith Landing the next day, Martha was setting up her chair high on the bank so she could enjoy the view of the river.  She recognized me and said "Ah, you made safely". She then asked me to join them for lunch and they eagerly answer my questions about down river campsites. They shared an unpublished BLM journal of all the campsites on the Upper Missouri which had very helpful information about each. They gave me their email address and asked me to let them know how the trip turned out. They were very encouraging. The truffles they shared with me made my day.

The pontoon crew at James Kipp, Todd, Bob, Chewy and Don. The hospitality and concern for my well being was humbling. The stories they told during dinner and breakfast had me laughing so much that my side hurt, and at times, their stories made me think twice about the demands of the river. Todd called Ellen for me and gave her an update. Bob, gave me his cell number in case I needed help on the lake. They gave me all their extra water bottles knowing I was low on water for the lake crossing. I was sad to see them leave James Kipp. Once I was safe in Fort Peck I called and informed Bob of my situation. He said he had been thinking about me lately and that no news was good news until the phone call.

Walter, the campground host at James Kipp Recreational Area, delivered the five gallons container and my supply packages to my picnic table by 9 am Monday morning. He offered me a land line he had set up on his site so I could call Ellen. Before he left he asked if I needed anything and then wished me luck on my journey. After I had launched, Walter returned to my campsite and gathered up the boxes of gear, food, and clothing that I was sending back home. UPS picked them up the next day.

Luke, the young college student spending his summer at James Kipp so he could complete his research on the fish in the Missouri. My first encounter with Luke was prior to James Kipp. He was the only motor boat that I encountered the entire trip that slowed down as he passed by me so his wake would not create problems for me. He used the time to inquire about my journey. Later, that same day, I met Luke at James Kipp and he told me about his research and his thesis for his Ph.D. When I left James Kipp I encountered him down river as he and his assistant were floating the water searching for his fish. He wished me luck as I floated pass.

Shannon, the manager of the Fort Peck Lake Marina, tried to get me accommodations in one of her on site trailers. It was being used by one of the hired hands and was a mess. She then gave me a free campsite behind one of the boats and told me not to hesitate to ask if I needed anything. The tent site was perfect.

Christina and Rachael, chef and waitress at the marina's bar, told me their life stories as I rested, drink 7Up, and ate dinner and munchies until closing time.  I had not shower since Fort Benton, so they must have been in misery as they told their stories from a distance.

The two young fishermen who bought me a beer, shook my hand, and told me they had been watching me make a bay crossing as they fished in the strong winds. They were ready to help me in case I needed it.

Linda, owner and manager of the Fort Peck Motel, who gave me a warm breakfast as soon as I had checked in and had a shower.  The pancakes, sausage, and OJ warmed me up. She allowed me to wash my clothes in the motel's laundry one night. Throughout my stay at the motel she would ask me if I needed anything. When I did check out, she tore up the bill for the breakfast she had made for me and wished me luck..

Billy, the chef, bartender, and general cleanup man at Fort Peck Motel. He noticed that the cable subscription the motel had did not include ESPN which carried the World Cup games. He took it upon himself to stream the games via his laptop to the TV so I could watch the games. When bar tending he made great drinks. He was one of nicest the guys I have ever met.

There were many individuals that helped in so many small ways but their help made a huge difference. I failed to make note of their names at the time. For example, Ellen provided me with one prepaid label for one box of used clothing and gear which UPS picked up from Walter the next day. The problem was I had so much to return home that it took two boxes. I only had one prepaid label. The UPS driver took both boxes from Walter and then at the depot they put the prepaid label on a much larger box that they had put the other two boxes inside. We were never charged for the extra boxes. Now that is service.

John

My top six photographs:

http://mytopfivephotos.blogspot.com/2016/03/number-six.html

My wife:

http://nittygrittygarden.blogspot.com/2015/02/i-have-greenhouse.html

Two padders:

http://jarvinenkayak.blogspot.com/2014/08/taking-plunge.html

John's Old Photos

http://johnsoldphotos.blogspot.com

Post #54: Heading Home

After our great night stay in Minot, Mt. and our disappointing find in Washburn, N.D., we headed home and back to the pups, our bed, and dinner at our table. We did stop and stay in the small western town of Medora, N.D. It is a tourist trap on steroids. Ellen liked it. We walked the town and visited numerous shops. Our room was nice for the price. I was surprised we were able to get a room for the night, considering how many tourist were in the small town.

The next morning we headed out for the loop drive through Theodore Roosevelt National Park (south unit) and found construction delays (of course) along the way. The area is known for buffalo and wild horses. We ecountered both on the drive.

One of two small groups of wild horses we encountered in the park.
They reminded us of the ones we paddled by on the Missouri River.
What a beautiful icon of freedom!

We wondered what this view would be like in the summer.
It sure is green and beautiful in June.

We could not wait to see our pups.

We spent time at home working on the new outdoor shower and the area that will be our patio.
Ellen handled the equipment as I chained up the rocks that had to be moved. We made very good progress.

I am home now and still processing the paddle. What stood out above all was the Montana hospitality that I encountered from day one through to Williston, N.D.  It will have a long term influence on me. The next time I encounter a hiker, biker, or kayaker in need of a helping hand, I will not hesitate to help. John

Our other 2014 summer kayak trips can be found here:

Two Paddlers

                              

Post #54: The Last Take Out Tuesday, June 24

Speed: 5-6 mph

Miles: 39

Time: 6 am MST to 5:30 pm CST

Campsite Location: Williston, North Dakota 

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.10808,-103.71405&ll=48.10808,-103.71405&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 

We awoke to fog. At first I was disappointed in the weather but as the day progressed, I was pleased with coolness and not having to look into the sun. We packed the kayak silently, and then I checked the guide book and my maps. At our lunch stop, I discovered that my mileage was off by six miles due to mile 0 being at the Army Corp Of Engineers boat launch. We were meeting Heather six miles upstream at Highway 85 and the boat launch at the bridge. I shared with Ellen that we had only 39 miles to do that day. She readily agreed that we could paddle the distance. We both knew we could if we took plenty of breaks. It was a happy paddle that day.

Our first encounter with man-made structures was with the train tracks that hung closely to the river as it narrowed and bent sharply to the south. As Ellen plotted her way through the curve a train crossed in front of us. It was loaded with coal and heading west, probably to the Seattle area for shipment to China. As we rounded the corner we viewed our first oil derrick. Then a second, and a third, and soon they were routine ornaments on the landscape. By 8:00 am we passed under the old train bridge that lifts apart to allow paddle wheel boats through. It had been used only three times before trains economically forced the big boats off the Missouri River. We found a decent spot to take out for breakfast at 8:15. The bugs had us for lunch. As the tent dried on a log it began to drizzle.  

Our next encounter with structures was at the stateline as we crossed into North Dakota. Fort Union was about 100 yards from the river and without access. We continued east. The current seemed to move us well. Or were we in a hurry and just paddling faster?

Later we were on a long straight away and we could see Highway 58 crossing the river on a two lane bridge. Traffic on the bridge was fast and thick with oil trucks. As we approached the bridge truck drivers honked their air horns at us and waved. We saluted them with our paddles lifted in the air. It was inspirational and added fuel to my strokes.

We stopped at the county park on the north shore and across from the confluence of the Yellowstone River. We didn't remain long in the park. It was a mess. Once back on the river the current was fast from the influence of the Yellowstone. There are no dams on the Yellowstone and it is the longest free flowing river in the states. The shoreline changed because of that. Trees lining the shore tilted downstream. Scars on the roots, trunks, and up the trees to about 5'-6' feet were apparently caused by flooding that pushed logs and ice blocks into them. My first thought was how hard it would be to find a campsite below the confluence. Debris was everywhere.

As we got closer to our final take out, the fog lifted and the air warmed. It felt good but the coolness of the fog had delayed our fatigue enough so we could finish the day somewhat less tired then the previous four days. We saw a channel go to the right and debated about taking it. We decided not to chance getting stuck in mud. My GPS told me we were close to the Highway 85 bridge. We were headed NE and then rounded a wide corner and headed east. Our goal the past five days appeared as a gray ribbon stretching across the Missouri River a mile downstream. It would be my final take out after five weeks and 800 miles of paddling. Seeing that bridge and knowing it was the end of my adventure was like meeting a new friend that you knew would be a longtime, trusted companion.

We were both quiet until the final take out. I was processing the five weeks on the Missouri River and very thankful for the fast current, high water, the great weather, and the wonderful people that I had encountered along the way. I gave thanks for my safe crossing of Fort Peck Lake. It was very special to share the last section with Ellen. I allowed her to process the last five days. She left me to my thoughts as we closed in on the final take out. John

Ellen gathers the items needed to make breakfast in view of the old draw bridge.

The final day, the last curve and straight away, and the final mile before the Highway 85 bridge.

John's final take out after five weeks on the Missouri River.

Heather arrived within minutes as we piled our gear out of the kayak and onto the tarp spread out in the fishing access parking lot.

A side trip to Washburn, ND, after Williston proved to be a waste of time. We were married there 15 years ago and wanted to take a photo outside the courthouse, but they tore the historic building down last year due to a bat infestation. Now this sterile building with the entire grounds paved over into a parking lot stands where an historic union once took place. 

The final day: Ellen

After a clear night, we woke to fog and low clouds only a few hours later. We broke camp and were relieved not to have to contend with thunderstorms or wind, or even the sun in our eyes. We set out at the usual time of 6:00 and stopped for breakfast after a unique old draw bridge. Though the breakfast site was plagued with mosquitoes and signs of cattle, as well as rain, we had the best breakfast of scrambled eggs, potatoes, and sausage in a tortilla. The eggs were the Mountain Home variety, a bit high in sodium and fat but oh so good. 

We crossed under a bridge where two different truckers honked at us. It was so strange to see cars and people, let alone be recognized for our efforts by them.

At our lunch stop, John realized that we had six fewer miles to go because he had been measuring back from a take out farther down river. Though neither of us would say it, I think we were hopeful that we could make it to Williston today. We saw the forts from the river, which we knew meant we were in North Dakota. We passed the confluence with the Yellowstone River and then stopped at a dirty county park. 

We were treated to another wildlife sighting. John saw a black bear sitting in a tree along the bank. The final part of the river looked a bit different than the map or the GPS; had we followed the GPS, we would have cut a few miles off the end. At any rate, coming around he corner to see the final bridge was a glorious site. I am sure John was beside himself with joy at seeing his final destination a mile away. 

We landed at the boat launch and fishing site to find some of the worst mud we had encountered. John sank in almost to the top of his calf-length boots, as did I, and I actually pulled my foot out of the boot trying to get it unstuck. What a way to finish! I had to borrow a fisherman's phone to call Heather as I did not have reception. I was really proud of John for paddling nearly 800 miles, most of that on his own. I can only guess his sense of accomplishment and relief he must have felt.

We could not wait to celebrate with a salad (fresh veggies and fruits!) and some wine in a nice hotel room. Heading for Washubrn, we stayed in a LaQuinta in Minot. It was wonderful!  Ellen

Post #53 The Last Campsite Monday, June 23

Speed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 43.5 

Time: 5:45 am to 5 pm 

Campsite location:  http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.04656,-104.18498&ll=48.04656,-104.18498&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 

Today is our fourth day on the river and we had another beautiful sunrise and a promising sky. During the night we had both made our way outside the tent late (or was it early in the morning?) at night and peed under the most brilliant night sky. It seemed like every star was out and at its finest. I don't remember any of them winking at us. The night sky seemed steady and quiet. 

As I read the description of the river from the guidebook, I listened to the NOAA weather cast for the area. They had predicted east winds for the next two days. We were headed east the next two days. We got an early start and the wind was calm. The current seemed to be running faster. Breakfast was at 8:00 am on nice sandy bank with plenty of logs in the water to secure the kayak to while we ate. Lunch was at 11:30 am at mile 65. My paddle jacket was off and on throughout the day according to the heat and wind. The terrain changed from groves of thick cottonwoods to colorful ridges similar to the Badlands of North Dakota and back to stands of cottonwoods. The colors stood out against the beautiful blue sky. As we snaked our way east, we could see the lollipop water towers of the small towns we had quietly passed earlier. Later in the day storm clouds chased us down the river and at one point we took out when thunder made a loud appearance. We found a decent site for the day's camp and quickly set up the tent. The storms eventually went to the south of us.

While waiting for Ellen in Fort Peck, I had called a hotel in Culberston, MT, to inquire about a room. It was going to be a surprise for Ellen.  She would be able to get out of the mud, have a warm shower, have wine with dinner, and rest her arms. It was explained to me that the Bakken Oil Field in North Dakota had such an influx of workers that even finding a hotel room in Culberston, MT, was impossible. He did offer a take out for us and the use of their facilities. He said the hotel was right on the river and had easy access to the river. As we passed Culberston, we never saw the town nor the hotel. Like Wolf Point, Macon, Poplar, and Brockton, Culberston had no access to the river. Those on the river had no access to the small towns. None had boat launches. We discussed that for hours. No wonder we never encountered people or fishermen. We never passed a drift boat the entire section from Fort Peck to Williston. 

Prior to settling in the cockpit for the day, I quickly calculated that if we made good progress on the river today, we could possibly be in our last campsite today. The winds did pick up late in the day and they were from the east. We found a campsite at 5 pm. Had it not been for the storms we could have gone longer on the river. As I set up the tent, I thought we could make it to Williston the next day. It was a nice thought to sleep on. John

We take a break for breakfast with a view!

The view from the backseat! Ellen always had John's backside, quite literally.

Ellen took a video from her perch in the back seat of the kayak in the morning hours.

We pitched our tent behind the only windbreak we felt comfortable with in a thunderstorm--a log and a sandbank. Though the kayak was far away, the log made a good location to make and eat dinner.

Thunderstorms threaten while Ellen prepares dinner.

 Ellen sorts out the dinner ingredients for salmon with chardonnay sauce over black rice.

Thunderstorms by then mostly moved down river and were no longer a threat to us.

John, with his zinc oxide-colored bread, enjoys some of our last wine, a chardonnay.

Ellen's take on day four
The day began innocently enough with beautiful clouds and sunshine and heavy dose of dew, but it would soon turn into a day of racing and chasing thunderclouds. By now, the morning's 4:30 rise and the 6:00 launch had become routine, along with a breakfast break at 8:00 and a lunch break around noon. The weather was the hallmark of the fourth day.

John told me to keep an eye on the thunderclouds. I found that I could lean over backwards and peek at the clouds behind me without missing a paddle stroke. I have a tremendous fear of lightning, but so far, I wasn't worried. We discussed the procedure for an emergency take out in case of a full-on thunderstorm so that I was prepared for what would need to be done and what would happen (secure the kayak, unfurl the tarp, and find a spot away from trees to hold the tarp and PFDs over our heads to protect us from rain and hail as needed). I tried not to worry and mostly succeeded.

As the afternoon wore on, the thunderclouds grew and merged, becoming ever-more threatening. They would eventually force us to land twice, the second time securing the kayak and readying the tarp that would cover us in case of a downpour. We found a good spot up against a sand bank that had trees in the distance. It wasn't the easiest place to go ashore, but it was worth it. We watched as the lightning struck again and again to our right rear, and rain showers drifted across the horizon. It was really quite beautiful, and though it was close, I never really felt frightened. 

We eventually decided that the thunderstorm was not travelling down the river, so we launched again and paddled a few more hours to our campsite. We were getting anxious again about the weather and having trouble finding a good spot that wasn't across from a pumping station. They are noisy! We settled on an expansive beach that had a pretty good site, though the kayak was far from where we pitched the tent.

While John secured the kayak, I worked on setting up camp, something I don't normally do. Because thunderstorms were threatening, we had to get camp set up as soon as we could. John joined me, and we got the tent and tarp secured quickly. Thunder rumbled all around us, but the rain and lightning thankfully never quite reached us. I was confident enough to prepare our meal outside using the log as a table and chairs. We had a pouched meal of salmon with chardonnay sauce over rice that I bought at PCC. The rice wasn't very good, but the salmon was excellent! The chardonnay box of wine was a perfect match.

After yet another 12-hour day and 43 or so miles, we slept readily. I kept nodding off holding my Kindle above my head to read. I did OK last night without Benedryl, so I went without it again. It was good to be sleeping well. I held high hopes that tonight would be our last campsite, and that we would have the endurance and weather cooperation to reach Williston tomorrow. Ellen

Post #52: Changes Sunday June 22

Speed: 4-5 mph

Miles: 43.5

Time: 6:00 am to 5:30 pm (estimate) 

Campsite location: N48.04656 W-104.18498. (We lost that day's SPOT message)

This morning my arms felt fine and I promised myself I would not paddle hard today. The morning light was beautiful. 

The weather was near perfect. The wind was apparent but never a problem. We drifted often saving our arms for what come be another long paddle day. The scenery was unspectacular. We had two beavers swim directly toward us and then dive in the water a few yards from us making their two slaps as they disappeared. The cottonwoods are thick on the shoreline with some hanging over the water and barely griping the ground. Fallen trees lay half in the river and half on the high bank. The river runs fast through their branches. Throughout this section of the paddle, we have encountered numerous irrigation pumping systems. Some make loud noises and other are somewhat quiet. They are reminders that ranches and farms are not far away. We passed Wolfpoint yesterday without encountering problems with people and today we passed Poplar without incident. In the past, paddlers have had serious problems in those areas. 

Ellen controlled the kayak with ease today. I sit in the front and navigate by using the guidebook, maps, and the GPS. Channels around islands can be difficult. We bottomed out twice today because of the shallow water. Ellen did her best at keeping the bow pointed down stream so the current would not tip the kayak while high bottomed. I would struggle out of the cockpit and pull Ellen and the kayak to deeper water and then hop back in so we could continue on our way. I would also look for debris, point out logs, and generally watch for anything in the river that might create problems for us. That was my job when in the double. Ellen spent her day guiding the boat avoiding objects in the water, and steering us to the strongest current, using the banks for protection against the wind, and straight lining when possible. Today she was making decisions on her own without my input. She was reading the river well. 

It was a short mileage day on the river. For once we found a good campsite early in the afternoon.  Ellen guided us to the right of an island and positioned the kayak against the shore so I could get out and check the possible site. Once we decided it was our home for the day, I lined the kayak around a log as Ellen paddled and steered the kayak.  The two of us moved the kayak into a very small cove.The campsite was my favorite. The tent and kayak were close together and there was little mud and no wind. Puffy white clouds hung below the deep blue sky as they drifted from horizon to horizon changing shape. We settled into our normal routine of making camp and then used the extra downtime to stretched out the tarp and inflated our matts and nap. I told Ellen I needed to give her two things. First, a hug for being with me. I enjoyed being on the river with her. Second, an apology for being such a jerk about her trials and errors with the rudder the last three days. She graciously accepted both. It was a good day on the river. John

John secures the kayak for the night and grabs his necessities.

We relax on the tarp on a sandy slope, watching the sunset. 

It was great to have the kayak and tent so close.

Ellen boils water to hydrate beans and salsa for nachos. You can see the island and the small channel we came down, as well as the snag that made our little cove where we took out.

A short video of Ellen making dinner, the river, and our campsite.

John enjoys a little zinfandel after dinner.

Ellen's day three

After a good night's sleep, I woke Sunday morning feeling refreshed and ready for a day on the river! I even managed a little more efficiency in breaking camp, so I think we were ready at about 5:45. After a quick bagel share, we paddled for a few hours. Today was much less windy than yesterday, thank goodness. The morning was quiet and peaceful, just like the previous two. We rounded a corner at one point where John took a video. The high cliff walls were stunning and the birds were glorious. It was the the most scenic part of the trip for me so far.

The scenic corner during a peaceful morning.

We stopped for breakfast after a couple of hours. We found a spot that was just past a snag that jutted out at a corner. The snag created a nice little sandy landing for us, so we climbed out and had some granola and almond milk. We had lunch just after a bridge. Our lunch was chicken and bean wraps--not bad. It was strange watching vehicles cross the bridge after not having seen anyone for the better part of three days.

The real treat was finally getting to see one of the trains we have heard so often! There was an incredibly sharp corner, sharp enough that it had "limited sight distance" and made we wonder just what was coming around the bend! The tracks were right next to the river there, so we got to see the train. (Incidentally, more river and high banks were around the corner--big surprise! though the narrowness there was a bit surprising.)

We passed a couple of dead cows in the river today. I can only imagine how easy it was for them to get stuck in the mud. What a sad, slow death. We also had a little trouble with some shallow areas. It kind of frightened me at first because I was worried about getting stuck in quicksand-like mud. But John was able to walk OK and drag the kayak to deep water when necessary. It was only a small section and then we were OK.

In the afternoon, we came around a sharp, long bend to see a gathering of herd animals at the shore. At first glance, I thought they were more cows, but as we approached I realized we were seeing a special sight: wild horses up close. There were 10-15 of them, including four or five foals. They were curious about us and I thought for a moment that they were going to follow us, but the stallion suddenly kicked up and lead them away from the river.

We took a chance on a small channel between an island and the shore, hoping to find the perfect campsite. What we found was quite perfect, in fact. Where the channel re-entered the river, there was a snag that made a little protected pool. John got out beforehand, so I paddled while he lined the boat against a swift current around the log and into the little cove. We were able to pull the kayak right up onto the sand and pitched our tent next to it. It was a beautiful site, protected from the wind by the island. It also gave us a feeling of privacy--not that we saw anyone on the river. 

I made nachos for dinner by rehydrating some refried beans, sprinkling on some daiya fake cheese, rehydrating some salsa, and chopping some avocado, all over some rice and bean chips. We had a little box of zinfandel. It was pretty good.

I felt pretty good after another 12-hour day, and even felt like I could keep going longer than the 43 miles we'd already done. I slept quite well that night!

Post #51: MOS Saturday, June 21

Speed: 4-5 mph

Miles: 42.5 

Time:  6:00 am to 7:09 pm 

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/48%C2%B005'04.3%22N+105%C2%B019'34.8%22W/@48.08452,-105.32634,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en 

I love the mornings on the river. The birds started singing before light and softly like alarms that start quietly and then get louder before you shut them off. Our alarm sounded at 4:30 am and we were soon in our paddle clothing. The dew had been heavy that night.  The sky looked promising and there was no wind. The current was still less than I anticipated. It didn't take us long to load the kayak. We had a bite to eat and started our day's paddle before 6:00 am. I had told Ellen that she would enjoy the morning hours on the river. She did.

Frustration for both of us continued about the zig zagging. Surprisingly, it was less when we had to contend with wind. Our day's goal was to camp at Miller's favorite campsite.  It sounded lovely the way he described it in his book. We started looking for a breakfast take out and found one around 8 am. Strong winds began around 10 am and we fought white caps as Ellen searched for banks to shelter us from the wind as the river snaked north, east, and south and then repeated that progression.The wind continued throughout the day and as we approached Miller's campsite we realized it would be a factor when selecting a camp. We took out at his site and found it had been ruined by the cows over the years. We quickly moved on. We spent the rest of the day exploring different locations for a camp and most were not protected from the wind or had too much mud or there was too much distance between camp and the kayak. 

Our final selection was protected from the wind and the mud was walkable and the kayak wasn't too far away. It was a tough day for paddling and the scenery was dull. There were not many bright spots in the day. Ellen complained to me about pain in her wrists. That concerned me because she had surgery on her left wrist years ago and I was afraid that the problem had been irritated by the long hours of paddling. As I crawled into my sleeping bag, I worried she would not be able to continue and my frustration about the rudder control was not helping matters. John

It was a windy lunch site but a nice rest from the cockpit.

Ellen prepared another great dinner of olive bread pizzas. She dehydrated a sauce with a little proscuitto in it ahead of time, so it just took a little water to rehydrate it, and then with some string cheese, we had surprisingly good little pizzas. The key is to buy good bread. We had a little box of red wine to go with it.

The beach was a bit soggy and buggy, and it was a bit of a walk to the kayak, but overall, it was safe and mostly free of cattle signs.

Another day in the boat according to Ellen
When John told me we'd be getting up at 4:30 to break camp, I tried not to think about the fact that it was 3:30 to my body, and actually, it seemed to work. The morning was my favorite time of the day; it was still and quiet, and before the sun came up. It was quite beautiful to watch the sunlight touch the landscape bit by bit. Being my first day at breaking camp, I was a little inefficient, but we managed to launch by 6:00 after splitting a little bagel with peanut butter. It wasn't long before my arms grew tired, and John had to remind me not to paddle so hard.

Despite the early hour, we had a little wind that only gathered in strength as the day passed. We stopped two hours later to have a breakfast burrito--freeze dried scrambled eggs with peppers and sausage in a whole wheat tortilla from PCC. It was pretty good!

Controlling the rudder was going better and I found that I did well in the wind. We had to paddle upwind for a while, but it wasn't as bad as I expected it to be since we were in a double. The only trouble was that you couldn't rest. Lunch was a tuna salad bagel, and for a snack we had apple slices and peanut butter. I wore my Gortex paddle clothes all day--it didn't look like the hot weather was going to manifest.

The first place we stopped to make camp turned out to be terrible. It was my first experience with sinking into the mud half way up my calves, and it was an area full of cattle, which meant the mud was mixed with poop. We both walked the beach looking for a suitable spot but I finally said that I thought the entire beach was pretty unsanitary. John agreed. We moved on from Cow Pie Cove. 

We tried other spots, but we had some trouble getting out of the wind. One place looked like it would be good and that the trees and sand bank would offer some protection. I stayed in the kayak while John checked it out. I knew before he even came back that it was a no-go; the entire time I waited, sand blew into my face and hair. 

We finally settled on a wide, grassy beach that wasn't ideal but at least it didn't have recent "signs" of cattle. I found that my arms were so tired, I could barely lift myself out of the kayak and it was hard to lift them to hug John! We paddled 12 hours covering 42 miles! I figured that would probably be the longest of our days, thinking it was mostly due to not finding a suitable campsite right away. Dinner was pizza, which tasted amazing after such a hard day of paddling.

I wore my wool long john pants to bed under my nightgown and was a bit warmer. I decided that tomorrow night, I would wear the long john top, too, as well as socks. I also took half a Bendryl in hopes that I could get a good night's sleep. I was looking forward to starting the the next day feeling rested. I also resolved not to complain about my tired, sore arms and wrists. Ellen

Post #50: Double on the River Friday, June 20

Speed: 4-6 mph

Miles: 35

Time: 10:15 am to 7:09 pm 

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/48%C2%B000'47.7%22N+105%C2%B057'35.9%22W/@48.01326,-105.95998,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en:  

We got up early Friday morning and had breakfast at the same site we had dinner the night before.  The weather was looking very promising.  Beautiful clouds in the sky and no wind.  Of course that was early in the morning.  We drove to the launch site and Ellen prepared our breakfast as I started to sort out my gear and clothing for the next section of the paddle.  After packing the single daily for four weeks, the double presented capacity problems.  We had already determined the Ellen would sit in the back and control the rudder.  That left me with the smaller front compartment and the space behind my seat (which was open to her cockpit) for all the gear and clothing that had been in the single's two compartments. Ellen packed the food, Dutch oven, small cooler, and my sleeping bag in the rear compartment along with her items. It was very frustrating packing the double.  I felt very unorganized and rushed as I was determining what we needed and what was being left in the car. All of this should been done Thursday night.

As soon as we finished breakfast, both of us packed the double as well as we could. This was our first time with a double kayak.  At 9:45 am I returned to the motel to secure the single on the car, check out, and wait for Heather, our shuttle driver.  I found Heather in the lobby reading while she waited for our arrival. She had been there since 8 am.  She forgot about the time change.  Fort Peck is on Mountain Time and Williston is on Central Time. I had Heather drive the Forester to our launch site as I described the nuances of the car.  Ellen was finished with packing the double and we were ready to go. Heather headed back to her home in Williston with the Nighthawk and our car.  I told her we would be 5-7 days on the river and would call her when we arrived in Williston.

We launched and were off for the final two hundred miles. We zig zagged across the lakeish river.  It was difficult for Ellen to get used to the rudder. I was rude throughout the day about the zig zagging. Also, I was disappointed in the lack of current below the dam. I was concerned about leaving needed items in the car.  My arms tired easily due to the lack of exercise the past week and also because of the larger paddle surface I was using now that I was using my paddle and not Ellen's. The weather was outstanding and we had little wind to contend with during the 39 miles we paddled. Ellen was really strong throughout the day.  My arms were tired. By the end of the day, Ellen had improved her rudder skills and was starting to read the river well.  She had very good questions about the river.

Once our campsite was selected, I set up the tent and she began preparing dinner. Dinner was amazing. We shared a small amount of boxed wine during our dinner. The campsite was lovely.  We never encountered a person throughout the day and in camp we felt distant from all the world's distractions. The sounds of passing trains softened the quietness.  I did my best to catch the songs of the chants and drums for as long as I could but I was asleep before 9 pm. It was very special to share it all with my wife. For the previous four weeks' solo, I had set up my daily routine and now I was sharing the river with my best companion. Ellen fit right in and began developing her own routine. She seemed to enjoy the river.  My rants must have been discouraging for her. John

We are set to begin the last section of the paddle.  The double kayak looked and felt very stable.

Ellen's take on the day
We began the day early, heading to the launch site at about 7:30. We had a breakfast of OSM (oats, sunflower seeds, and millet) pancakes and turkey sausage. It was delicious! After packing the kayak and determining what to leave behind, we set out around 10:15 after having made arrangements with Heather. The launch area was a placid lake of sorts, but soon we entered the river and encountered some current, though not as much as John expected. I was a little nervous starting out, but mostly excited to be sharing in the last part of John's journey. I made the rookie mistake of paddling too hard the first few hours and wore myself out. Normally, our paddles last a few hours, never more than four, so I was in for a real treat but very tired arms.

I had some trouble getting the hang of the rudder. It takes a light touch and a bit of finesse. I kept over-steering, which would then cause me to over-correct and get into a cycle of zig zags. It was terribly frustrating. We stopped every two hours to take a break. On this day, our first break was lunch, which was a turkey sandwich, one of the last fresh foods we would have. We barely spoke and when John checked his cell phone for coverage, I figured he was calling Heather to tell her to come back! I was determined to figure out how to control the rudder better, and focused on small, gentle pushes. I also adjusted my foot pedals, which were WAY too close for the first two hours. Fortunately, my strategy worked and I soon began to get the hang of it. I had to completely focus on controlling the rudder at all times. I found it actually easier to control when we had wind because I could be more forceful on the pedals. The calm, still water of the morning hours was always the most difficult because it required the most finesse.

We paddled until around 6:00 (an eight-hour day!) and made camp at a truly beautiful beach. There was a short strip of sand where John pitched our tent, a big log to sit on, and a forest of waist-high, wide-bladed grass. I made dinner as John set up camp--buffalo burgers with pickles, mustard, and ketchup with a side of baked potato chips. A simple burger has never tasted so good! I also brought along little boxes of wine, one for each night. We had a muscat with our burgers. We sat on the log to eat dinner and I was surprised by a large toad who crawled out from the bark still on the log. I thought I had heard something rustling and chirping in there! He disappeared back inside the bark.

John finishes his dinner and enjoys some wine. You can see our tiny tent in the center of the photo.

I was astounded by the quality of the light as the sun set. The grass turned a bright green with long, deep shadows, and the water turned as blue as the grass was green. Everything was tinged in the golden light of the setting sun. As soon as the sun disappeared, there was a chill to the air, though not an unpleasant one. It had been nicely warm that day and evening, so I was surprised by the overall cooler temperatures we encountered, both day and night. I figured the real heat was probably on its way.

In addition to the trains somewhere in the unseen distance passing a couple times an hour, we could also hear what sounded like Native American drums. The wind carried rising voices with the drums, culminating in the four strong beats that always close a Native American song. We figured there was a powwow on the other side of the river.

As we assembled our beds inside the two-person backpacking tent, our Big Agnes, I was a little dismayed to find the the sleeping mats didn't quite fit toward our feet, as the tent is tapered. Once inside, there was very little room to turn around, but it actually turned out OK. I liked the fact that I didn't slide off my mat (because there was nowhere to slide off the mat to...) and that I could feel warmth coming from John. He used my medium weight bag (rated for 20) and I used his summer bag (rated for 45). I am a warm sleeper, so I figured it would be OK.

We both read our Kindles for a little while until our eyes got heavy.We continued to hear faint sounds of the celebration as we drifted off; it was a special time. I ended up being a little cold that night, so I just tucked into my bag and zipped it up around my head, leaving only my nose and eyes showing. It was pretty cosy. Thank goodness for my Nemo pillow! I didn't have enough air in my Nemo mattress, so I didn't sleep very well. I made up my mind to make a few changes to my sleeping attire and mattress the next night. Throughout the night, we heard the slap of the beaver tails on the river, something that delighted me to no end; having first heard about it from John, it was exciting to experience it firsthand.  Ellen

               

Ellen prepares a buffalo burger dinner for our first meal on the river.

Our first campsite was lovely.  We could hear the trains in the distance.  

It is always nice to be able to set up camp near the kayak. 

We could hear the trains and the combination of drums and chants in the distance.

We easily fell asleep.