Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Post #55: Thanks!

As I mentioned in the previous post, when I began this project I thought it would be a test of my mental toughness and how my phyiscal stamina would hold up. It was to a certain extent. I thought a lot about the Lewis and Clark Corp and how they pushed and pulled their boats up river against that strong current.  How did they ever keep their footing in that mud?
Each morning I looked forward to being back on the river and experiencing the new sights around next bend. The morning hours on the river took my mind off the tired muscles. Watching the endless pairs of geese guarding their off-spring as they paraded across the water or through the high grass was inspiring. Listening to the beavers at night making their two slaps in the water as they curised with and against the current was novel for me. Surprising the herd of wild horses as they gathered on a sandy bend was a thrill I will never forget. Seeing the numerous dead cows laying in the river was heart breaking as I thought about their slow death caused by the suction of the mud.
The river is huge and very powerful and I gained a tremendous respect for it. Yet, each morning it was always inviting me back.
With that said, the experiences I will always remember are the ones involving the Montana people. Without their help, it would not have been such a wonderful esperience.  I was very impressed with their hospitality.
A heartfelt thank you to the following people...

Erwin, Silos campground volunteer host, who gave me a free campsite on the sandy beach next to my kayak.  He even offered to take me out to dinner that evening and jumped by my campsite often to talk.

Buzz, the seasonal park ranger at Black Sands State Park. Buzz gave me insight to which tent site would be the best for my stay.  He told me numerous stories about working at the park and dealing with the tourist throughout the summers. He even checked on me late in the evening to make sure I was safe.

Craig, the owner of Kim's Marina on Canyon Ferry Lake, had his hired hand, Logan, give me free portage around Canyon Ferry Dam. It saved me money and valuable hours.

Jared, fishing guide, stopped his boat with two clients where I was beached for lunch.  He asked if I was alright and if I needed any help.

Mike, owner of Trout Motel in Cascade, was full of advice about the river. He connected me with Terry, the previous owner of the motel, who makes wooden kayaks.

Terry and Pam, residents of Cascade, invited me over for wine and to view the wooden kayaks in their shop.

The five fishermen who were having breakfast in Cascade while waiting out the morning thunderstorm. All five gave me advice about the river downstream from Cascade. They were concerned about my well being.

Jim, Medicine River Canoe Club, was more than ready to provide me portage around Great Falls.
He took me to the C.M. Russell Museum, stored my kayak in his garage, dropped me off at my hotel, and paid for breakfast the next day. Jim was a wealth of information. He gave me prints of the Fort Benton river front which were very helpful and a list of potential places to stay. He would not take gas money for the long drive to my put-in at Carter Ferry. He also provided useful information for Ellen when she drove through Great Falls on the way to Fort Peck.

Brian, Carter Ferry operator, provided the latest information about down river conditions as I prepared the kayak for put-in.

Laurie, owner of Laurel and Lark B&B in Fort Benton, was an outstanding host for my three day stay. She not only prepared healthy and tasteful breakfasts, but also provided conversation and a glass or two of wine while I sat in her backyard in the late afternoons.

Mark Schaefer, the Upper Missour River manager for the BLM, called me to inform me that he would have water at James Kipp for me. Later, while I was at Coal Banks, Mark visited my campsite and we discussed conditions and possible campsites downriver. I missed the campsites but the water at James Kipp helped me get across Fort Peck Lake.

Jim and Martha, BLM volunteers, were at Coal Banks when I arrived.  Jim wanted to help me move my kayak and gear to my tent site and Matha provided useful information about the area. As I approached Judith Landing the next day, Martha was setting up her chair high on the bank so she could enjoy the view of the river.  She recognized me and said "Ah, you made safely". She then asked me to join them for lunch and they eagerly answer my questions about down river campsites. They shared an unpublished BLM journal of all the campsites on the Upper Missouri which had very helpful information about each. They gave me their email address and asked me to let them know how the trip turned out. They were very encouraging. The truffles they shared with me made my day.

The pontoon crew at James Kipp, Todd, Bob, Chewy and Don. The hospitality and concern for my well being was humbling. The stories they told during dinner and breakfast had me laughing so much that my side hurt, and at times, their stories made me think twice about the demands of the river. Todd called Ellen for me and gave her an update. Bob, gave me his cell number in case I needed help on the lake. They gave me all their extra water bottles knowing I was low on water for the lake crossing. I was sad to see them leave James Kipp. Once I was safe in Fort Peck I called and informed Bob of my situation. He said he had been thinking about me lately and that no news was good news until the phone call.

Walter, the campground host at James Kipp Recreational Area, delivered the five gallons container and my supply packages to my picnic table by 9 am Monday morning. He offered me a land line he had set up on his site so I could call Ellen. Before he left he asked if I needed anything and then wished me luck on my journey. After I had launched, Walter returned to my campsite and gathered up the boxes of gear, food, and clothing that I was sending back home. UPS picked them up the next day.

Luke, the young college student spending his summer at James Kipp so he could complete his research on the fish in the Missouri. My first encounter with Luke was prior to James Kipp. He was the only motor boat that I encountered the entire trip that slowed down as he passed by me so his wake would not create problems for me. He used the time to inquire about my journey. Later, that same day, I met Luke at James Kipp and he told me about his research and his thesis for his Ph.D. When I left James Kipp I encountered him down river as he and his assistant were floating the water searching for his fish. He wished me luck as I floated pass.

Shannon, the manager of the Fort Peck Lake Marina, tried to get me accommodations in one of her on site trailers. It was being used by one of the hired hands and was a mess. She then gave me a free campsite behind one of the boats and told me not to hesitate to ask if I needed anything. The tent site was perfect.

Christina and Rachael, chef and waitress at the marina's bar, told me their life stories as I rested, drink 7Up, and ate dinner and munchies until closing time.  I had not shower since Fort Benton, so they must have been in misery as they told their stories from a distance.

The two young fishermen who bought me a beer, shook my hand, and told me they had been watching me make a bay crossing as they fished in the strong winds. They were ready to help me in case I needed it.

Linda, owner and manager of the Fort Peck Motel, who gave me a warm breakfast as soon as I had checked in and had a shower.  The pancakes, sausage, and OJ warmed me up. She allowed me to wash my clothes in the motel's laundry one night. Throughout my stay at the motel she would ask me if I needed anything. When I did check out, she tore up the bill for the breakfast she had made for me and wished me luck..

Billy, the chef, bartender, and general cleanup man at Fort Peck Motel. He noticed that the cable subscription the motel had did not include ESPN which carried the World Cup games. He took it upon himself to stream the games via his laptop to the TV so I could watch the games. When bar tending he made great drinks. He was one of nicest the guys I have ever met.

There were many individuals that helped in so many small ways but their help made a huge difference. I failed to make note of their names at the time. For example, Ellen provided me with one prepaid label for one box of used clothing and gear which UPS picked up from Walter the next day. The problem was I had so much to return home that it took two boxes. I only had one prepaid label. The UPS driver took both boxes from Walter and then at the depot they put the prepaid label on a much larger box that they had put the other two boxes inside. We were never charged for the extra boxes. Now that is service.

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Post #54: Heading Home

After our great night stay in Minot, Mt. and our disappointing find in Washburn, N.D., we headed home and back to the pups, our bed, and dinner at our table. We did stop and stay in the small western town of Medora, N.D. It is a tourist trap on steroids. Ellen liked it. We walked the town and visited numerous shops. Our room was nice for the price. I was surprised we were able to get a room for the night, considering how many tourist were in the small town.

The next morning we headed out for the loop drive through Theodore Roosevelt National Park (south unit) and found construction delays (of course) along the way. The area is known for buffalo and wild horses. We ecountered both on the drive.

One of two small groups of wild horses we encountered in the park.
They reminded us of the ones we paddled by on the Missouri River.
What a beautiful icon of freedom!

We wondered what this view would be like in the summer.
It sure is green and beautiful in June.

We could not wait to see our pups.

We spent time at home working on the new outdoor shower and the area that will be our patio.
Ellen handled the equipment as I chained up the rocks that had to be moved. We made very good progress.

I am home now and still processing the paddle. What stood out above all was the Montana hospitality that I encountered from day one through to Williston, N.D.  It will have a long term influence on me. The next time I encounter a hiker, biker, or kayaker in need of a helping hand, I will not hesitate to help. John

Our other 2014 summer kayak trips can be found here: