Post #48: Fork Peck Motel Tuesday, June 17

This will be all for posts for now, as I leave for Montana tomorrow around 10:00 am from work. I updated the posts from 36 and on with lots of photos. Sorry the format needs work...it's all I have time for now. Ellen

I met most the crew that work at Fort Peck Motel. Dinners are not available during the week days so I munch on energy bars left over from the paddle on the lake.  Bar food is greasy and does satisfy my need for food. The soccer games entertain me during the mid day. I walk a lot during the day.  Mostly I read, watch the news updates, and walk.  The town of Fort Peck has no store and no gas station. The locals travel the 18 miles to Glasgow to fill gas tanks and cupboards.

Billy resides at the motel with his actress girlfriend.  He does everything at the motel. 

He is their chef and bar tender at night and cleans rooms during the day.  

The motel does not get ESPN so Billy setup his laptop to stream the soccer games through their TV so I could enjoy the games. 

He is down to earth and one of the nicest guys I have ever met.  He wants to be an actor.

Chase is from Washington State and volunteered to work the summer at Fork Peck Dam as an inspector. 

During the day he makes sure the work at the dam meets government regulations. He would often sit at the end of the bar and surf the net, eat dinner, have one or two drinks, and tell us about his daily frustrations due to his work.  

Chase is quiet but very approachable. 

Linda, right, runs a pretty tight ship at the motel.  Not much gets by her.  She is up early in the morning and late into the night. 

Here she is seen introducing Summer, a foreign exchange worker from Peking, to a local. 

Linda scheduled me to wash my clothing on Tuesday by using their washer and dryer at night but the washer broke down.  I was able to use their brand new washer on Wednesday.

Summer, left, eats breakfast with the new foreign exchange worker also from China who was dealing with jet lag.  

Summer was very happy to have a "friend" with her at Fort Peck. 

Post #47: Ellen's Final Preps Monday, June 16

T-minus 38 hours until I leave. I have been doing a little each night getting ready--I have four different lists going, but now I am down to one. I only have some food prep to do Tuesday night and then I'll pack the car.

I am worried about all this fitting in the double with John's gear, too!

The Forester is cleaned and ready to be packed.

The deck awaits John's return...

...and so does Banks. Ellen

My time at the motel is filled with idle time. I told Linda and Carl that if they needed an extra pair of hands getting something done, I was up to the task. I was never requested so much of my time was used for cleaning the kayak and the gear and taking walks.  My first walk was to explore the town of Fort Peck.  My second walk was to the visitor center which had an informative dinosaur display.  The entire Fort Peck Lake is world renowned for dinosaur bones.  My third walk was to the dam's powerhouse for a tour.  The fourth, fifth, and sixth walks took me to a brewery for coffee, smoothies, and breakfast sandwiches.  My last walk was to the boat launch for our put in and to scout for a nice location to have dinner with Ellen. I should have volunteered at the theatre and helped build sets for their next play. Oh, well.  John

  The historic Fort Peck Motel was my home for five days.

I arrived too late to catch the afternoon showing of Buddy-The Buddy Holly Story.  

This is a well respected theater which has actors from throughout the nation competing for roles.  

Post #46: Fort Peck, Mt. Sunday, June 15

John is safe and warm in a motel room in Fort Peck tonight. Someone from the motel came to the marina and picked him up. It was two miles away and, therefore, too far to portage the kayak. The daytime weather turned cold on him the last few days, and the nights have remained cold. He has been wearing three layers of clothing at night. He previously sent me his medium weight sleeping bag and I sent him his summer bag--it was a mistake. The days are usually very hot, so it is surprising that the nights are so cold.


I am all packed and ready to head out Wednesday morning. I have eight hours of driving to do Wednesday to Missoula, and nine hours on Thursday to Fort Peck. This will probably be the last post until we get to Williston. Ellen

Sunday's weather included high winds and rain.  Early in the morning, from inside my tent, I called Fort Peck Motel and requested a room. That weekend there was a women's conference in Glasgow and there was not an empty room within 100 miles of the conference. Fort Peck Motel is about 18 miles from Glasgow and they had been booked all weekend.  I was asked to call back at 10 am in order to talk to Carl, the owner, about portage and storage of the kayak.  The room for the week, storage of the kayak, and the trip to the motel were all arranged after speaking to Carl.  He arrived at the Marina at 11 am and I was hauled the two miles to the motel in the back of his pickup and in my room taking a much needed shower by noon.  Linda, co-owner, made a wonderful breakfast for me out of left overs from the morning's breakfast.  I needed that food.  The warmth, the soap and hot water on my body, the pancakes and sausage, and the bed restored my energy. Throughout the day I kept thinking about my days on the lake and how lucky I was with the conditions I encountered. It was raining hard and the winds were strong as I sat in the lobby catching up on the World Cup games and the news. The storms continued to roll across the lake throughout the day. I had just beaten the bad weather. Had I not left James Kipp Monday afternoon and had taken the scheduled full two days of rest, I would still be on the lake in those miserable conditions. I lucked out.  John

The rain and thunder rolled through Fort Peck in the 

afternoons through Tuesday  like clockwork. 

Post #45: Last Day on Fort Peck Lake Saturday, June 14

Speed: 1-2 mph

Miles: 18

Time: 6:45 am to 2:44 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B059'43.8%22N+106%C2%B029'19.1%22W/@47.9955,-106.48863,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

John is finally off Fort Peck Lake and he is safe! He will rest now until Thursday when I join him. I picked up the Whisper today. Ellen

                         The front of it is hiding in the tree branches--it's a long boat, 18 feet!

John's location: http://fms.ws/HP0rD/47.99550N/106.48863W. The hotel in Fort Peck is booked, so he is camping at the marina campground tonight. Ellen

That was the toughest and most dangerous day I have ever had in the kayak.The lake kicked my butt throughout the18 mile day. The day started early with calm conditions.  Minutes after launching, the ripples started. Then the chop. Waves soon followed. After crossing the first bay and arriving at Fourth Ridge, I found a spot on the second spit to rest and remove the water from the front compartment. By the time I started across the next bay there were whitecaps moving from the NW. I struggled with progress. Skunk Coulee Bay had 2-3 foot waves and I was moving parallel with them. It was scary, but the Nighthawk bobbed up and down with the waves. I had to concentrate so I could brace if a rogue wave hit me. 

I finally made it across the bay and rested in a swampy area among the ducks and geese and their droppings. Again, I emptied the front compartment, ate, drank water, and rested and wished I had some of Ellen's SecondSurge to spike my energy level. Hoping the wind would die down, I sat in the cockpit and waited. Duck Creek Bay is the widest and the next to the last crossing. Where I was sitting the wind continued but out in the bay the white caps appeared to decreased. I went for it. Mid-way the bay blew up. I looked to my left at a progress point and noticed I was not moving forward. Shit. I increased my strokes and turned the kayak slightly to the right hoping the wind would push me. It did. Slightly. The kayak continued to move slowly across the bay and also dangerously out into more open water. The waves were breaking over the kayak's cockpit and my spray skirt was not keeping me dry. They were now 3'-4' waves that were breaking across the deck. 

I believe the bay is 2.7 miles wide and it was the toughest mental and physical test I have ever encountered. There were two fishingnboats close to the opposite shore and I turned toward them putting me parallel with the waves again. By the time I got close to the boats, they had left for the Marina. Finally, I made it across and found a rest site. I was tired, wet, cold, and frightened by the entire day's experience. After bailing out the front compartment and the cockpit, I ate, drank, and rested for the remaining three shorter crossings. None compared to the last one. They seemed protected from the wind by the closeness of the hills. 

I finally made it to Fort Peck Marina and portaged my kayak and gear to their bar to change my clothes and have a beer. There was a party of six on the covered porch of the bar. None said a word to me. Two fishermen bought me a beer and shook my hand as they told me they were in one of the bays and had watched my crossing in case I needed help. I simply said,  "I appreciate that." The last day on the lake was a humbling experience.The winds today were the strongest of the trip. The conditions on the water were the worst yet. I was so very glad to be off the lake. The lake is behind me. I slept well as it rained all night and the strong winds continued through the morning hours. 

When I got home I looked at the weather almanac for Fort Peck (actually, it was for Glassgow) to see what the wind direction and speed was for June 14. According to one site it was a west wind and the speed was from 11 mph to 28 mph.  Another site had the average wind speed at 39 mph with 50 mph gusts. I am happy for not be a statistic.

Shannon, the manager of the marina, gave me a space for the tent Saturday night. Christina and Rachel (above), who work at the marina's bar entertained me with their life stories as I drank Pepsi until closing hour. 

I must have smelled bad having no shower since Fort Benton.

           

Two fishermen bought me a beer and told me they had their eyes on 

      me while I made one crossing. The beer never tasted so good. 

         A changed of clothing and rest seem to perk me up.  

           My home Saturday night was under a tree and a few steps from the bar.

Post #44: Pines Recreational Area Friday, June 13

Speed: 2 mph

Miles: 18

Time: 7:07 am to 2 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B049'21.4%22N+106%C2%B036'43.9%22W/@47.82261,-106.61218,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

John is almost done with Fort Peck Lake. He expects to reach the Fort Peck Marina tomorrow. His current location is http://fms.ws/HNanU/47.82261N/106.61218W. He saw some cabins in the area and a cell phone tower, so he thought he'd try his phone. He had one bar, so he was able to call me and fill me in. The river is running high, so he didn't have any problems with choosing the right channel and running into mud. There was no current, so the days were long and the paddling tough. He will have five days of rest before I get there!

His current location is Pines. It is 18 lake miles and five wide bays from Fort Peck Marina. The largest bay is ahead of him.

The evening light filled Fort Peck Lake with color.

The kayak is on the shore and the tent is set up

 near a much-needed table, his first since James Kipp.

Ellen

The day started well with an early start in more SE wind. As the day progressed, the wind became less, yet not absence.  I felt fresh from the long day of rest.  About midday the direction of the wind changed and was now pushing me. The sail was pulled from under my deck bag and released to the winds. My speed jumped to between 5-10 mph for about an hour and a half. The practice sessions I had at home on windy Rattlesnake Lake paid off. My technique of holding the sail and paddle with the hands and using the elbow to dip the blade in the water to steer the kayak worked. I zipped by a boat of three fishermen and heard one of them say "That guy is really moving". I was. Needless to say it was an easy day of paddling to Pines even with the five bay crossings. I had Pines to myself even though it is only 18 miles from the dam. The summer homes in the area and cell phone tower told me I was no longer on my own. Once I had camp set up I called Ellen and we were able to catch up. I told her tomorrow would be my last day on the lake if all goes well with the weather. A storm moved in later and thunder shook the ground. I ate dinner, munched on treats, hydrated, walked the road for miles, and fell asleep reading from my Kindle.

Post #43:Strong Southeast Winds Thursday, June 12

Speed: 3-4 mph

Miles: 15

6:45 am to 11 am

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B040'50.1%22N+106%C2%B058'07.1%22W/@47.68058,-106.96864,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

John's location: http://fms.ws/HMgGq/47.68058N/106.96864W

Today was the first day of paddling on Fort Peck Lake. His package arrived today from James Kipp. Lots of food returned--more food than clothes. It makes me wonder just what he is eating. He's going to be one lean dude when he gets back!

Crossing the numerous bays on the north shore and fighting the wind, John found his inspiration in Ellen's ability to run the Chuckanut 50k. "I see her every day," he says. He has my photo inside his map case. Ellen

After a great morning of paddling, at 10:00 am the wind forced me off the lake. At 7:00 pm, I gave up waiting for the SE winds to stop. I set up camp on a small sandy spit.  This camp is east of navigational light "F".  

Collecting rocks for holding down the tent stakes, walking the surrounding hills, snacking on treats, reading, eating lunch then dinner, dozing, and taking photos, I endured hours of non-paddle time. My arms loved the down time. The soft sand stuck to everything. It was the first time I realized I should be checking the keel for mud when I put in. 

I fell asleep listening to the waves and woke up at 4:30 am hearing the same sound. By the time I was ready to paddle the wind had calmed down enough that I was able to judge the morning paddle to be safe. My goal is five bays away, Pines Recreation Area.

I waited and waited for the winds to calm down. They did
the next morning.

Post #42: Bone Trail BLM Wednesday, June 11

Speed: 3-4 mph

Miles: 15.5

Time: 6 am to 5:39 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B040'27.4%22N+107%C2%B014'53.7%22W/@47.67428,-107.24826,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en 

        Today's journey graced with a rainbow.

                                                      Take out at Devil's Creek after
                                        strong winds made me head for shore Tuesday.

                                  

The mud was manageble at Devil's Creek. The area was huge

with no one in sight. 

Post #41: Gates of the Mountains video

A little bit of the scenery in Gates of the Mountains shows in this video that John took last week. I got the iPad Friday and finally managed to get it from iPad to blog! Ellen

Post #40: Devil's Creek BLM Tuesday, June 10

Speed: 4-5 mph

Miles: 41

Time: 6 am to 8:04 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B037'07.0%22N+107%C2%B039'16.4%22W/@47.6185644,-107.65457,14z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

I got a phone call from a local today that John had met at James Kipp Campground. Todd invited John to join him, his friends, and their kids on his pontoon boat for dinner! He asked Todd to give me a call, letting me know he had received his supply package and that he was doing fine. Nice people. Ellen

                                                        The alarm went off at 4:30 am. 

                                          It was a calm morning at Cow Pie Two campsite.

 The Missouri River becomes Fort Peck Lake 

   with little or no braiding and no current due to  the high water.

The kayak rested at Devil's Creek late in the day. 

          It was about 25 miles on flat water. 

              The wind was not a problem. 

I loved this section of the paddle. My alarm went off at 4:30 and I was on the water by 6:45 am. The river transitioned to a lake and the entire area was serene. The quietness was disturbed only by the lovely bird songs and my paddle strokes. When I left camp early in the morning, I was apprehensive about possible braiding of the river and sand traps. It was not a problem. Because the river is running high, I experienced little of the channeling and braiding that is common in this area. Only once did my paddle touch the sand beneath the kayak. 

About mid-morning I watched a good size coyote as it was walking the north shore heading down river. A few miles later there was a pair of coyotes making their way down steam. They gave me a few glances and then disappeared in the brush and behind the bank.  

I swung wide around UL Bend and the headed up the north side of the bend. This is a great refuge for elk and sure enough as I took out for lunch I noticed I was watched by a dozen or so elk high above me and yet they were only fifty or sixty yards away. Devil's Creek Recreation Area was my first campsite without a current. I am on the lake now. I found myself admiring the hills in this area. Their texture is enhanced by the low sun and their green grass make them pop against the blue sky. This is ready beautiful country. Stunning rough beauty was everywhere.

After lunch I continued up the north shore and encountered NW winds.  I cut a NE diagonal across to the south shore fighting the waves and rested where the lake heads east and found myself in direct line of the wind. The next straight line maneuver would cut out more miles if the wind would allow it. I tried waiting it out but the white caps increased. Devil's Creek Recreation Area was a short distance away so I made my way to it. My goal for the day was Bone Trail on the north shore but this campsite will suffice. 

The evening's stillness was overwhelming. My senses felt perfect. There is not another person in the area. This is total isolation. It was a lovely day's paddle. I may not forget this day. I slept well. John 

Post #39:Heading for Fort Peck Lake Monday, June 9

Speed: 4-5 mph

Miles: 29

Time: 12:45 pm to 4:45 pm

Campsite location:   https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B035'01.0%22N+108%C2%B012'35.2%22W/@47.58361,-108.20978,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

John picked up his package at James Kipp yesterday, and the campground host, Walter, had jugs of water for him, so I know he has food and water for Fort Peck Lake, coming up in a few days. It's the most difficult part of the journey. Ellen

His current location: http://fms.ws/HI_y0/47.58361N/108.20978W. He passed up a couple of days' campsites and is just past Hutton Bottom, well ahead of schedule. He must be banking time for Fort Peck Lake. Ellen

After I had breakfast with the crew on the pontoon boat, Monday at 9 am Walter Cooke, the campground host, arrived with supply packages from Ellen and five gallons of water from Mark Schaefer.

The crew came over to say good-bye and wish me luck. They gave me their extra water. I asked Todd to call Ellen and give her a status report. Bob gave me his cell number in case I needed help while on the lake. He thought if I climbed a hill I might get coverage and he would help me.

Sincere and wonderful people liven in Montana. I am impressed with the amount of help I have been given.  

I torn down camp and switched out the dirty for the clean, sent home gear I had not used, filled my water containers and was back on the river at 1 pm.  I have no idea what the notorious Fort Peck Lake has in store for me. This will be a good challenge.

After only three hours of paddling and storms near by, I decided to setup camp after finding a bank low enough to take out.  In the thick mud, I moved my gear from the kayak to my tarp which was on dry and somewhat flat land. The site was similar to Cow Pie campsite near Cascade.  Using sticks I stuck into the mud, I secure both the stern and the bow of the kayak. The storms rolled by throughout the afternoon and evening. I never got wet. The braiding and sand traps are ahead of me tomorrow. The epic 146 mile long Fort Peck Lake begins tomorrow. The last thing I remember hearing as I feel asleep Monday night was the usual double slaps from the beavers cruising by. 

Post #38: James Kipp Recreational Area Sunday, June 8

Speed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 18

Time: 6:00 am to 9:15 am 

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B037'26.0%22N+108%C2%B040'38.8%22W/@47.6239,-108.67744,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

Around noon, John is already at James Kipp Recreation Area, where supply packages await him. Ellen 

Before noon on Sunday, I was in sight of the Fred Robinson bridge at James Kipp Recreational Area. There was a large number of people under the bridge cleaning their day's catch. They had setup numerous RVs in the campground and cooked, drank, and enjoyed each other's company late into the night. I was in the tent area where it was quiet.  

While I napped inside my tent, a pontoon boat arrived and was hauled up the boat launch and parked across from the tent area. It looked like four different families. The kids and men stayed as the wifes left the area. The kids began setting up their tent in the area near my location. While I forced cold black rice down for dinner, Todd and his daughter, Brooke, visited with me. The crew had floated from near Coal Banks on a three day float to James Kipp. Todd has a ranch near Opiem, Mt. just south of the Canadian border. Brooke could hold a conversation with anyone and had great eye contact.  

The other there men were preparing dinner and I was invited over for food, beer, and great stories. They were for friends that were having a great time on the river. It was enjoyable being around such down to earth people. They made sure that when I left for my tent, I was full.  Beer, pop,  home made sausage, chips, and hot dogs were on the menu. 

As I finished reading my Kindle, they built a fire so the kids could have their s'mores. Soon the entire crew retired to their sleeping bags. The kids were inside the tent and the men found flat areas outside on the hard packed ground. They were all asleep before I drifted off. It was a great day. It was a much needed mental health day for me. The people I meet on the river are amazingly helpful and friendly. I am humbled by their kindness.

Post #37: Lower Woodhawk BLM Saturday, June 7

ESpeed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 68

Time: 6:00 am to 8:30 pm

Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B044'27.6%22N+108%C2%B056'55.6%22W/@47.74099,-108.94879,13478m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en 

On my way to Hole in the Wall campsite, I stopped at Eagle Creek campground in order to hike Neat Coulee. As I started my hike, a family packed their canoe and headed out.

The family suggested that I take a right at the fork in the trail. I did. Soon afterwards, I found a chockstone which I crawled under and pass by it The coulee kept getting narrower like the slot canyons in the Southwest.The trail meandered upwards and once the incline became too steep I turned back. My legs really enjoyed the walk.
 It was a lovely hike and a much needed leg stretcher.

The hike reminded me of the slot canyons in the SW.

I took out at Judith Landing for a rest and lunch. It was 26 miles from Hole in the Wall to Judith Landing.

Jim and Martha invited me to have lunch with them. I had met them at Coal Banks the day before. They are BLM volunteers and move from site to site starting at Fort Benton and ending at Judith Landing.  They had an unpublished pamphlet with photos and detailed descriptions of all possible campsites on the Upper Missouri. It was a treasure of information. Martha offered me three truffles after lunch. They were all a delight. Jim and Martha were very informative and encouraging.

I was turning the kayak so I could view the big horn sheep better and floated backwards for a few minutes. 

I had no idea what to expect for scenery beyond Judith Landing. It was beautiful. The lighting enhanced every color and the texture. At times I would just drift and enjoy the sights. It was one of my favorite sections of the paddle.  I tried to capture the beautiful, the quietness, and the bighorn sheep on the cliff via video. 

Absolutely stunning landscape below Judith Landing.

The take out location was Lower Woodhawk at 8:30pm.  It was 45 miles from Judith Landing and Judith is 26 miles from my morning put in at Hole in the Wall.  That made for a 71 mile day and a easy 18 miles to James Kipp the next day. It was a horrible camping location. The kayak was tied up on the muddy shore and the tent was setup under the cottonwoods with too much distance between the two. I was too tired to care.

My coordinates: http://fms.ws/HGfGW/47.74099N/108.94879W near Woodland Creek.
I didn't reach the site until almost 8:30 pm. Long day.

Post #36: Hole in the Wall BLM Friday, June 6

Speed: 6-7 mph

Miles: 22

Time: 8:06 am to 2:36 pm
Campsite location:  https://www.google.com/maps/place/47%C2%B049'12.1%22N+110%C2%B003'52.1%22W/@47.82002,-110.06448,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en

 Heading down river to Coal Banks for a night at a developed campsite.

The take-out at Coal Banks: 42 miles down rover from Fort Benton
 and 288 miles from my put-in at Three Forks where I started on 5/25.

I met the Upper Missouri River manager, Mark Schaefer. 

He told me he would have water at James Kipp for me.

These two Vancouver paddlers kept me entertained with their adventures stories.
They have a very impressive outdoor resume.

Pat and Pierce sent some photos of me leaving Coal Banks.

I landed at Hole in the Wall late in the afternoon after a 22 mile day. 

This was the first time that weather permitting I realized that 

I could paddle into the evening instead of starting my campground search at 4:00 pm.

I set up camp alongside the BLM shelter at Hole in the Wall. 

I encountered no mice which told me there where plenty of snakes in the area.

I love the view of the river looking west upriver from Hole in the Wall.

When you are on the river, it doesn't seem to run fast. 

Once on shore, you can easily see how fast the current is running. 

I spent the evening alone watching and listening to the river flow. 

The bird songs almost drowned out the sound of the river. The late evening sun felt great.

I feel like I have the entire Missouri River to myself. I kinda like this.